The Game-Changing Japanese Shows in Paris

14 / 03 / 2025
POR Marisa Fatás

At Paris Fashion Week, Japanese designers pushed boundaries, fusing tradition, deconstruction, and innovation. From Yohji Yamamoto’s poetic tailoring to Kenzo’s rebellious energy and Comme des Garçons’ radical reinvention, these eight standout shows defined the season.

This season, 13 Japanese brandsCFCL, Mame Kurogouchi, Anrealage, Undercover, Issey Miyake, Kenzo, Yohji Yamamoto, Junya Watanabe, Noir Kei Ninomiya, Comme des Garçons, Junko Shimada, Sacai, and Ujoh—brought their unique perspectives to Paris Fashion Week. From deconstructed tailoring to experimental knitwear and sculptural silhouettes, their collective presence reaffirmed Japan’s pivotal role in shaping contemporary fashion. Among them, we spotlight eight standout names whose collections captured innovation, craftsmanship, and a bold redefinition of tradition.

Noir Kei Ninomiya

Celebrating his 10th runway anniversary, Kei Ninomiya pushes fashion’s boundaries with Noir Kei Ninomiya. This season, handworked resin segments create surreal textures and bold volumes, evoking coral reefs and sea urchins. Gold Lurex knits, oversized bows, and sculptural forms blend the avant-garde with a touch of convention. Enigmatic and daring, Ninomiya’s vision remains as innovative as ever.

Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake‘s Fall 2025 collection, [N]either [N]or, plays with perspective and wearability, inspired by Erwin Wurm’s One Minute Sculptures. Satoshi Kondo redefines silhouettes with trompe-l’œil prints, sculptural draping, and padded futon-inspired pieces. Blending innovation with fluidity, the collection transforms ambiguity into a bold, weightless statement.

Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe‘s Fall 2025 collection channels Jimi Hendrix’s electric spirit through Cubist-inspired distortions. Structured Perfecto jackets, exaggerated silhouettes, and sculptural outerwear redefine rock aesthetics. Faux-hair pants, python boots, and modish bell-bottoms amplify the rebellious energy, while glossy black plastic pieces evoke a futuristic, heroic edge. A bold fusion of music and art, Watanabe’s vision turns chaos into harmony.

Comme des Garçons

Outside, crowds gathered as Bulgarian folk singers set the tone for a show that unfolded as a bold statement. Structured menswear fabrics, distorted into exaggerated forms, critiqued corporate uniformity. Then, layers of femininity took over—cocktail dresses, voluminous crinolines, and cascading satin, transforming into a couture armor. With this collection, Comme des Garçons challenged the dominance of mega-corporations, celebrating independent creativity. Rei Kawakubo’s vision turned ruffles and bows into symbols of resistance and renewal.

Mame Kurogouchi

Mame Kurogouchi’s Fall 2025 collection merges tradition and modernity, drawing from Japanese lacquerware, mochi, and suminagashi marble printing. The designs feature fluid draping, airy volumes, and sculptural textures, with standout cocoon-like puffer coats that evoke river stones and spun sugar. Presented in the tranquil setting of Ogata, the show offered a poetic tribute to Japanese craftsmanship.

Kenzo

Blending punk, mod, and OG Kenzo references, the Fall 2025 collection marks a bold womenswear return. Under Nigo’s vision, Joshua Bullen infused checkerboard sweaters, cropped outerwear, and kimono jackets with rebellious energy. Fur-cuffed evening coats and oversized bunny pieces added a surreal touch, making this collection both playful and provocative.

CFCL

For its fifth anniversary, CFCL refines knitwear as architecture and movement. Yusuke Takahashi blends technology and craft with sculptural pleats, conical dresses, and structured knits in recycled materials. Celestial-inspired metallics and ribbed monofilament knits add elegance, previewing CFCL’s upcoming Tokyo exhibition.

Yohji Yamamoto

The show closed with models swapping long black coats, revealing deep purple quilted linings—an intimate gesture that hinted at hidden depths and unspoken connections. The melancholic soundtrack, featuring a song by the designer himself, reinforced the sense of nostalgia and urgency. Midway through, Yohji Yamamoto presented his signature outerwear: deconstructed silhouettes, layered fabrics, and sculptural coats adorned with abstract geometric patterns. Grounded in timelessness rather than trends, his designs, like the designer himself, remain unmistakably singular.