In ‘Everything is Moving, Nothing Feels Safe’, her Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, Pauline Dujancourt channels the fragility of memory and the emotional tension of transformation through sculptural knitwear and ethereal drapes. Inspired by her late grandmother the designer translates grief, legacy and regeneration into form, using fashion as a space to reconnect with the past.
The collection draws on the symbolism of a family plant that once belonged to Pauline Dujancourt’s grandmother and blooms every February, around her birthday. Pauline’s own version has yet to flower—so this season, she made it bloom through her clothes. Dresses and coats were adorned with delicate 3D florals in metallic yarn, while cable knits and chiffon mimicked stems, petals and movement.
This emotional core is expressed through the designer’s distinctive approach to knitwear, where traditional techniques like crochet and macramé are reimagined with woven strips, draping and transparency. It’s a practice rooted in her time at Central Saint Martins, and in the quiet influence of her grandmother, who hand-knitted clothes for the family from textile scraps.
That legacy lives on in the way she now collaborates with women artisans in France, the UK and Peru—many of them grandmothers or mothers themselves—who handcraft her pieces while supporting their independence.
Shortlisted for the 2024 LVMH Prize, Dujancourt is gaining fast recognition. But in ‘Everything is Moving, Nothing Feels Safe’, she stays grounded in a world of contrasts: structure and softness, intimacy and disarray, fragility and resilience. A collection that doesn’t just dress the body—it remembers, honours and gently dares to bloom.
