The Illusion of Losing Control: KNWLS SS27

Layers of fabric and meaning unfold within the intimate setting of ‘Chambre Close’, exploring femininity, vulnerability and control. We take a closer look at the beauty and details of KNWLS SS27.

A skirt slipping from the hips, a strap falling off the shoulder, a dress coming undone. Beneath these layers of fabric lie layers of meaning. In ‘Chambre Close’, the Spring/Summer 2027 collection by KNWLS, gestures of accidental exposure become expressions of autonomy. Presented during London Fashion Week, the show sees creative directors Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault revisit the work of French photographer Bettina Rheims, an early influence on their label.

Created in 1992 with writer Serge Bramly, ‘Chambre Close’ portrays women in intimate interiors, exploring the relationship between the body, desire and the gaze. That tension shapes a collection where skirts appear to fall, straps slip and delicate lingerie emerges beneath displaced layers. Torn lace, reconstructed denim and twisted fabrics suggest garments coming apart, while invisible wires and tulle hold everything precisely in place.

The language of lingerie and sleepwear extends into everyday dressing. Leather jackets, trench coats and denim introduce relaxed silhouettes, balancing exposure and concealment, softness and strength. This carefully orchestrated instability captures the moment before something falls apart. With ‘Chambre Close’, KNWLS transforms the appearance of losing control into an assertion of agency, suggesting that vulnerability and self-determination can coexist.