When Franco Moschino founded his house in 1983, he began by questioning fashion from within. More than four decades later, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo approach their Moschino debut through irreverence, subversion and the possibility of creating new meanings.
Operating inside the fashion system while questioning its codes, hierarchies and excesses was central to Franco Moschino’s approach. Parody, satire and irreverence became tools for turning fashion back on itself, an attitude that would later crystallize in ‘Stop the Fashion System’. For Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, founders of Sunnei and now creative directors of Moschino, Spring Summer 2027 begins from that attitude rather than from a reconstruction of its most recognizable signs.
Their manifesto makes that intention clear. “Irony is a stance”, it states, while also proposing to “study the archive”, “understand without replicating” and “create new references”. The point is less to reproduce Moschino’s visual codes than to understand how they once worked and what they can mean now.
That approach extends beyond the clothes. The debut was not livestreamed, the designers chose not to work with a stylist, and hundreds of people wearing their own clothes moved through the space while the models walked against their flow. The usual choreography of a major fashion show was slightly displaced, bringing spectacle, everyday dress and audience into the same frame.
Exaggerated proportions, saturated colour and visual jokes retain Moschino’s appetite for subversion without reducing that attitude to quotation. The manifesto also proposes that “Clothes are not the center. They are structure”, opening the collection towards questions of image, consumption and identity.
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