Issey Miyake SS27 puts movement before fashion. In the darkness of Paris’ Dojo, fabric catches air, bodies become part of the show and ma turns the space between things into something you can feel.
In the darkness of the Dojo de Paris, movement came before fashion. Issey Miyake’s Spring Summer 2027 presentation opened with a choreographed performance by dancer and choreographer Tess Voelker, with bodies moving through the black space to an original piano composition by Japanese musician Koki Nakano. Before the first look appeared, the relationship between body, fabric, sound and movement had already been established. It was an introduction to Figure of Ma, Satoshi Kondo’s latest collection for the house, exploring the Japanese concept of ma, the intangible space between things.
For Kondo, that space exists between the body and the clothes that surround it. The collection began with the simple act of playing with a large piece of fabric, allowing it to catch air, fold, twist and transform before becoming clothing. On the runway, garments appeared to breathe with their wearers. Ballooning silhouettes gathered air as they moved, while sheer Billow pieces swayed around the body and Tempo Pleats bounced with each step. Draped ensembles, sculptural twists and fluid knits created shapes that were never entirely fixed, changing with every movement.
The collaboration with Nakano extended this idea into sound. Original piano music was developed alongside the clothes, creating a dialogue between what could be heard and what could be seen. The result was a presentation in which fashion felt less like something static and more like a living performance. Voelker and the ensemble of dancers gave physical form to the freedom of ma, while the garments followed with their own rhythm, catching air and releasing it again.
That sense of play extended to the accessories, including a new footwear collaboration with Camper. The partnership reimagined Camper’s signature Peu silhouette through the language of Issey Miyake, resulting in two styles, Peu Lift and Peu Formula. Peu Lift gives the barefoot inspired shoe an architectural twist with an elevated arched heel and asymmetric toe construction, while Peu Formula transforms the organic contours of a worn Peu Form into a lightweight sculptural shoe. Both continue the collection’s interest in physicality, comfort and the memory of movement.
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