With 70 runway shows and designer presentations packed into six official days, plus a handful of major off-calendar shows, New York Fashion Week SS27 was as energetic and eclectic as ever. From established American names like Tommy Hilfiger, Michael Kors, and Ralph Lauren returning with renewed confidence to emerging designers pushing fashion into more experimental territory, this season focused on individuality, craft, and a fresh take on the codes of New York style. Optimism ran through the week, with designers embracing color, movement, nostalgia, and experimentation while continuing to make a strong case for New York as a place where fashion feels personal, diverse, and culturally connected. With so much to see across the city, we have narrowed it down to the collections and moments that stood out most which we didn’t want you to miss!
Dauphinette
Dauphinette made their New York Fashion Week debut this season with Lady Mondegreen, at Genesis House, with designer Olivia Cheng using the idea of a “mondegreen,” a misheard lyric remembered as something else, to explore the uncertainty of seeing life through someone else’s eyes and the feeling of being between worlds. Olivia founded the brand when she was just 19; eight years later, the 24-look collection captures moments of transformation, with dresses appearing frozen, distorted, or beginning to unravel, while silk pieces become canvases for Cheng’s figural oil paintings and distressed chiffon is shaped through low-waste patternmaking and hand-torn hems. Cheng revisits signatures from the brand’s beginnings, including pressed botanicals, which evolve into Florganza, a new textile made by fusing real flowers between layers of silk organza. More than 1,900 pressed flowers were used throughout the collection, alongside hundreds of hours of hand-beading, sewing, and painting. At 28, Cheng also turns inward, questioning the expectations she placed on each year of her twenties and embracing the possibility that certainty does not always arrive on schedule, and that an imperfect or “misheard” version of life can be just as meaningful as the original.
ECKHAUS LATTA
Eckhaus Latta celebrated its 15th anniversary with Making More Friends, the Spring Summer 2027 collection by designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta. Among the friends in front row were Ivy Wolk and Coco Gordon Moore. Known for bringing a relaxed, unpretentious cool and a beauty of imperfection to New York Fashion Week, the label continues to find newness in familiar wardrobe staples, subtly shifting the construction, proportion, layering, texture and styling of T-shirts, jeans, knitwear, skirts and tailoring. Denim, one of the brand’s signature materials, remained central, while tactile knitwear reinforced Eckhaus Latta’s distinctly handmade sensibility, with fluid silhouettes and rich textures giving the collection its depth. The show also highlighted the designers’ collaboration with J.Crew, a limited-edition collection that reimagines J.Crew icons through Eckhaus Latta’s expressive lens. Before designing the collaboration, Eckhaus and Latta delved into decades of vintage J.Crew catalogs, drawing inspiration from the colors, proportions and signature styles that have defined the American brand for more than 40 years.
PHOTO: Courtesy of MADISON VOELKEL/BFA
Magda Butrym
Unveiled during New York Fashion Week alongside the opening of Magda Butrym’s first New York flagship, Natalia marks the designer’s first runway show in the city, exploring a woman fully in control of her image. The collection takes its name from Polish artist Natalia LL, whose work challenged ideas around femininity, desire and the gaze. Butrym brings masculine tailoring together with lingerie-inspired transparency, evening glamour with domestic references, and polished silhouettes with instinctive, unruly details, from leather blousons and broad-shouldered trenches to sheer dresses, lace, feathers and foil-coated outerwear. Childhood memories of women dressing up at home inform wallpaper florals and crochet trims, capturing what Butrym calls the “Slavic Marilyn” spirit of unapologetic overdressing. Polish heritage runs throughout, with Warsaw’s syrenka inspiring fluid, siren-like silhouettes, while the flower carpets of Spycimierz’s Corpus Christi procession appear in petal-filled details and a rose-scattered runway.
Proenza Schouler
This season, Proenza Schouler Creative Director Rachel Scott explored the freedom and individuality of how women dress in New York, where the boundaries between casual and eveningwear are fluid, and anything feels possible. Inspired by the instinctive, unexpected ways women put themselves together, the collection is sensual, confident, and slightly wild, with clothing designed to adapt to the body rather than the other way around. Cowling, rounded hips, body tracing seams and swirling stripes bring softness and movement to sharper silhouettes, while twisted merino knits and sheer layers add a sensual, undone quality. Strong color combinations, fluorescent pink velvet and archival printing techniques on denim bring further dimension, while craft takes a wilder turn through tiger motifs rendered in silk plissé, hand-knit intarsia and sequins. The rose, the collection’s sole floral motif and a symbol of both feminism and political expression, appears through cyanotypes, pigment printing and manipulated colorways.
Sanderlak
Last year we met up with Sander in his Paris showroom, where he introduced us to his new brand and concept. We were excited to see Sanderlak make its debut on the official CFDA calendar with The World of Sanderlak, a presentation at the brand’s headquarters at 2 East Broadway that offered a glimpse into designer Sander Lak’s instinctive, color-driven approach to fashion. The space was transformed into four immersive color worlds, with clothes, images, and references from across the brand’s collections arranged entirely by palette rather than chronology. Founded in 2025, Sanderlak builds its wardrobe in chapters shaped by place, beginning with Los Angeles and moving on to Holland, while keeping silhouettes consistent as the colors evolve. For Lak, who says he naturally organizes his life and work through color rather than time, the presentation brought his creative process to life, connecting pieces from different moments, locations and contexts through a shared palette.
PHOTO: Courtesy of Nikita Gorlov
SHOWPONY
SHOWPONY by Evanie Frausto presented its collection at the Ukrainian National Home, with singer, songwriter, and producer COBRAH scoring the show, closing the runway, and performing at the afterparty at Gospël. For the collection, Frausto turned the SHOWPONY universe inside out, taking inspiration from the hidden construction of a wig and exploring what happens when the underside becomes visible. Hair became a material beyond itself, with silk screen-printed to resemble strands, wool and mohair recreating its texture, and deadstock hair heated, felted, and manipulated using techniques drawn from Frausto’s work behind the chair. The result was a ceremonial, otherworldly wardrobe in which garments and headwear merged into the same tactile world, with red symbolizing sacrifice and rebirth and blue evoking cleansing, renewal and water. The lunar references throughout the collection spoke to cycles, instinct and the unexplained.
PHOTO: Courtesy of First View
threeASFOUR
threeASFOUR returned to the runway after five years with SAMSãRA, its Spring Summer 2027 collection, presented at Mana Contemporary with a hybrid cast of live models and digital fashion worn by threeASFOUR avatars as Natasha Lyonne, Waris Ahluwalia and Rosanna Arquette sat front row. The show also introduced threeASFOUR Denim, a collection of 14 reversible styles inspired by global garment archetypes and the collective’s belief in denim as the “uniform of humanity,” reimagining everything from the classic T-shirt and boot-cut jean to the button-down, trench coat and mini dress. Drawing on threeASFOUR’s 25-year archive and its ongoing exploration of fashion, art and technology, SAMSãRA reflected on sustainability, transformation and our shared human experience, accompanied by a live performance from Hen Yanni. The return to the runway comes shortly after Sean Ono Lennon’s documentary on the collective premiered at Tribeca Festival, with a theatrical release in New York planned for this fall.
PHOTO: Courtesy of Randy Brooke
