There was something strangely aquatic unfolding this season in Paris. Across the collections, the sea kept surfacing in different forms: waves, ropes, nets, knots, harbours, wet textures and sun bleached colours, as if fashion itself was dreaming of somewhere beyond the city. Perhaps it speaks to a wider desire to sail off into the distance, catch a wave and let the tide carry us somewhere else. In a world that rarely seems to slow down, the ocean offers the fantasy of another rhythm, one dictated by weather, water and daylight rather than deadlines. Maybe we are not necessarily looking to escape, but to remember what it feels like to drift, to breathe, and to live a little slower.
Nets gains at HODAKOVA
HODAKOVA’s SS27 Conventional Collection appeared to wash ashore in Paris. The collection transformed the brand’s signature upcycling practice into a maritime world of sailor dresses, weathered fabrics, harbour nets and utilitarian ropes. Even Ellen’s poetry appeared folded into little boats. The most literal connection to Stockholm’s waterfront came through vintage industrial netting collected from the city’s harbours. Nets slipped from skirts and shirts, covered chemise dresses, became ponchos and tights, and were moulded onto upcycled leather as a reference to fishing nets trailing alongside a boat. Scalloped hems added another folkloric detail, recalling island dress and the irregular textures of life by the sea. Finally, thick utilitarian anchor ropes, also salvaged from Stockholm’s harbours, were fashioned into a sleeveless top and tent dress.
Good vibrations at J.SIMONE
J.SIMONE dives into the golden era of 1970s surf culture for SS27, when surfing became more than a sport and evolved into an attitude, a visual language and a way of life. The collection captures that carefree beach mentality through bold colours, playful motifs and a relaxed relationship with the body, bringing the spirit of the ocean into the city. Surf T-shirts stretch into dresses, beach towels become makeshift garments and familiar symbols of surf culture, from sharks’ teeth and hibiscus to palms, wax and bodysurfing fins, are reimagined with J.SIMONE’s irreverent touch. A collaboration with legendary surf brand T&C, including two complete looks and a specially designed board, further roots the collection in the culture, while flowing viscose, bamboo and mesh echo the movement of waves and the freedom of life by the sea.
Mermaid Hair and summer spontaneity at LEAWALD
For her debut show, LEAWALD presents Pop Mutation, a surreal exploration of exaggerated femininity, transformation and the body as a playground. Lea Waldberg’s fascination with organic textures such as hair and skin evolves into a world of pink and green hair, blue sculpted skin and fantastical scales, where the familiar gradually becomes strange. Objects are playfully reimagined and shifted onto the body, from sleep masks and 3D bust glasses to lingerie embellished with pockets shaped like panties and shoes taking the form of a thong. Glossy fake leather, latex and satin echo the surface of skin, shaping bold, sensual silhouettes that blur the line between clothing, costume and character. Entirely handmade, the collection reflects Waldberg’s instinctive, artisanal approach and her background in stage costume, bringing together pop stars, dolls and creatures with the playful freedom of dressing up.
It’s a breeze at Vautrait
Vautrait imagines a quieter relationship with time, inspired by the simple rhythms of life by the sea. Sailing knots become a defining detail, alongside open constructions and a palette drawn from salt, seaweed, sunlight and oxidised metal. The collection reflects an imagined life with fewer possessions, more time outdoors and a closer connection to the natural world, where the weather is read from the sky and clothing is light enough for the wind to pass through it. Vautrait captures the feeling of letting time stretch, with each piece carrying traces of the sea and the slower rituals that come with it.
Scales at Anrealage
At Maison de la Radio et de la Musique, ANREALAGE’s latest collection unfolds as a gradual mutation, moving from second skin all in ones into increasingly engineered forms. Materials, patterns and technology come together in a new kind of skin, combining traditional Japanese fabrics and washi with Toray Ultrasuede scales, water saving prints and translucent sequins, while pixelated graphics, robots and chromatophore inspired surfaces blur the organic with the digital. Bodysuits merge tailoring, outerwear and dresses into continuous silhouettes, while SEKISAI’s 3D printed scales shift colour with movement. The transformation culminates in six armour like evening dresses covered in thousands of individually controlled E Ink scales, changing colour and pattern without emitting light, their intricate wiring mapped by AI beneath the surface like a network of veins, feathers or hair.
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