Upon the fresh snow, Copenhaguen was welcoming this edition, moving muted and enlightened by this white cloak which guised the city for its fashion week.
I was in fine timing until chaos began. The bus dropped me in the middle of nowhere and delayed me in great measure from my goal, Fine Chaos’ show. Not only that, once in CIFF, the location, slightly I found myself floating out of direction.
Until a swarm of people around a corner dictated me where was the indicated place. You always get that mass expectation for Fine Chaos. Allow me to explain why this occurs. The team is a family. The genuine respect and professional appreciation they have for each other extend beyond the workplace. They take pride in each other. Being this the third time covering their show, it is complicated to not grow fond of each member of the team as you get to know them. Warm hearts with clear values and driven minds. They are building a community in the organic world. Those are the roots of the brand.
As for the rest of its structure, we will proceed with developing the intricate story of Aratxis, a futuristic world in which all the collections are set. This chapter is designated «Ara Solis», The altar of the Sun. Befalls in Dome, a mega corporation, built this city over power and surveillance. Inferred to the centre of the catwalk as a giant assembly of cables surrounding the Goddess Sissel.
This time, the designs are defined by a balance between delicacy and underground style. Heavy and light.
We find materials such as mesh and lace mingling among sweatshirts and cargo trousers. Cuts that reveal the hip bones or those of the shoulders. Ties and burned ribbons in contrast to spikey elements in hairstyles, bags, shoulder pads or necklaces. All of this among chains.
It maintains exaggerated belts and zips as a defining element of the brand. Contrary to this, there are elegant letter embroideries on fine necks and tops. We find perfectly sewn but uneven fine shirt collars. Cables too, constructing trousers, extending footwear or between the braids of some models. They play with uneven structure and precise execution, leading to something visually imperfect and deconstructed yet serious.
Geometric hairstyles, giving a sense of command and harsh sensations. Black dominates, but in some pieces another colour timidly appears fleetingly. Further denoting that feeling of a submissive and controlled society.
This time, our attention is drawn to two characters standing on either sides of the Goddess on the altar. Two twins, one entirely in black and the other in white, with complementary spikey structures on their arms. Backstage, when they were together, they looked like a single angel made up of two halves. Like the balance that Marc, the creative director, is demonstrating with this collection.
Those angels, and Sissel plugged onto the altar, welcomed us and also gave us the farewell, until the next collection is unveiled.
Photography by Ionela Bona for VEIN MAGAZINE
