At the iconic Roland-Garros Stadium, Lacoste staged its Fall-Winter 2026 runway on the legendary Philippe Chatrier Court, transforming the clay court into the scene of an interrupted tennis match. Creative director Pelagia Kolotouros looked to a defining episode in the life of founder René Lacoste which was his rain-soaked 1923 Davis Cup match against Manuel de Gomar to explore the tension between endurance and elegance. Rather than focusing solely on the drama of competition, Kolotouros shifted the spotlight to the stands, examining spectator culture and the in-between moments where fashion, function, and sport collide.
Trench coats anchored the collection, while pleated trench skirts and poncho-like polo silhouettes introduced new proportions to the Lacoste wardrobe. Transparent nylon layers and reflective wet-look finishes evoked rain-slicked surfaces, set against plush velvet and softly tailored René blazers that added a sensual counterpoint. Technical fabrics and waterproof constructions underscored the brand’s “tech-heritage” approach, blending athletic practicality with elevated design.
A collaboration with Mackintosh further reinforced the collection’s weather-ready ethos, bringing rubberised fabrics and hand-sealed waterproof cotton into Lacoste’s world. Accessories echoed the tennis narrative: the Lenglen bag returned in updated proportions, while racket covers and tennis ball clutches nodded playfully to the court. Rendered in rain-intensified hues cool greys, agave green, and rust red inspired by Roland-Garros clay.
In a Paris landscape still largely dominated by male creative directors, Pelagia Kolotouros stands out as one of the few women shaping the direction of a major house. Since stepping into the role at Lacoste in 2023, the Greek designer has quietly repositioned the label’s heritage sportswear codes for a new generation. I mention this because before the show I had several messages from friends and family wishing me a Happy Women’s Day, and when I walked into the stadium a wave of emotion over took me, all the great women in tennis who have won titles in the stadium and Kolotouros exceeding in her field are a reminder of how far we have come and how much the women in sports and fashion have had to win a place at the table to ensure that future women have a place too.
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