MALDITO has unveiled its AW25 collection «Quasi Couture,» a romantic, gothic tale commemorating 15 years of Francisco Terra‘s independent designer journey, following a highly anticipated return to Fashion Week after several seasons developing hybrid projects and mostly recently a boot collab with Brazilian brand Melissa. This fashion show is a component of Francisco Terra’s Maldito project, which combines apparel, comics, and objects into a cohesive artistic endeavor. With the silhouettes he has created over his artistic career, it’s like a debutante’s ball and Tiago B. Pestana takes us backstage for this exclusive.
In the shape of a gothic story, this story is a fantastical retelling of memories associated with his childhood in Brazil. “We follow the evening of a young person who comes home from school and prepares for an exceptional party,” stated Francisco. “Iel rolls around jogging in his sheets, letters and drawings from his diary before setting off on a motorcycle to Paris, where iel is greeted by rats and cool kids.” “I started with my school uniform, on which I embroidered an ‘M’ in reference to the first telenovela I ever watched: Hilda Furacão,” he explained. The series about a young middle-class woman who leaves home to become a prostitute, before falling madly in love with a priest. «The lingerie, which featured prominently in the series’ outfits, left a lasting impression on my imagination, and the idea that undergarments have extraordinary power.
The collection builds connections between carnival costumes and French expertise. Their frames are overflowing with lace and corset briefs, creating teeming couture ensembles. Rhinestones are reminiscent of the adornment methods employed by samba dancers. Feathers were made from recycled carnival ribbons. «Betty Brand» created the jewelry, and «Chau Rising,» a friend of the designer, created the angora items. Additionally, Domestique, B. Bamboo, and Squillace 1923 worked with the collection.
Photography by Tiago B. Pestana for VEIN MAGAZINE