Inside a cavern of iron and mud, Han Kjøbenhavn turned fashion into ritual. Shadows, firelit curtains, and primal silhouettes dissolved the runway into something elemental—less show, more awakening. Ionela Bona tells us about it from the CPHFW.
I rang the bell for the second time. Tunnelfabrikken, oceanvej 1, 27th of January.
A big guy opened the narrow door. Guests outside flooded that tiny aperture into an infinite dark space. Guided by a sand light at the end, we had entered a circular structure resembling a Roman colosseum, made of cold iron. In this void, brownish curtains floating down from a ring created four divisions, and melted into the ground, turning into mud.
The lighting was trespassing the curtains and lighting them as if it were fire, while interacting with a live performance by the singer D1ma (famous in Denmark), who has written and produced five original tracks just for this occasion. Visceral magnetic sounds and matching light drawn you to the present with all your senses. Inner and inner without even moving. Expectant of what might happen.
Shadows and silhouettes against the curtains announced black creatures emerging into the arena. Walking arduosly as their feet were sucked into the dirt. In the character of primitive Homo Sapiens learning their way into standing gait. A figure, then a shadow, a shadow then a figure. The constant peek-a-boo of the models with the public as they moved in and out of the main circle set by the drapes hung on a silver ring. Designs kept Han’s style of accentuating shoulders, bold acute shapes and textile texture variation. Mermaid silhouette was dominant as well as long sleeves and tails. Headpieces that hid and changed the headshape into geometric rhombs made the models look non-human. Only their hands betrayed their condition.
Han Kjobenhavn House is known for its uncompromised creativity, delivering a mysterious aura on each show. Therefore is no surprise to know the company’s AW12 fashion film received a bronze lion for their «AW Collection 2012» film at the Cannes Lions International Festival of Creativity.
This conceptual presentation looked like nothing on Earth. And yet, was as simple as fusing rough wet rudimentary mud, organic ethereal courtains and light which lit vibrantely, all three in the same tones.
To enhance it, the hypnotic music, deepens the glow, stirring something elemental beneath the skin.
To contrast it, the dark and sculptural designs worn by the actors in rough movements. Pure cinema in real life (Dune-wise).
The structure was seven times a person. An ingenious creation.
Speechless.
How big is art, how small are we humans – the only thought that crossed my mind.
Check our Instagram @veinmagazine for some videos of this show
