Curiosity, admiration and individuality shape the mood of ‘The Female Gaze’, the latest collection by AVAVAV. Presented during Milan Fashion Week Fall Winter 2026, Beate Karlsson reflects on femininity through a perspective that embraces imperfection, attraction and the quiet intensity of observation.
A room full of women watching. With the collection ‘The Female Gaze’, AVAVAV brought to Milan Fashion Week Fall Winter 2026 a proposal rooted in the subtle dynamics of observation between women. Under the creative direction of Beate Karlsson, the show unfolded as a reflection on how femininity is constructed when the gaze belongs to those inside the scene rather than outside it.
Karlsson framed the project through a personal reflection she shared on Instagram: “Growing up, I learned what femininity was supposed to look like through images that were already decided for me. For this collection, I tried to look at women the way women look at each other with curiosity, admiration, and sometimes even desire, but without the need to perfect or simplify. I’ve always been inspired by women who carry their ‘imperfections’ like unique accessories, it’s extremely attractive. When I dress for women, I want to be confident, special, the most interesting version of myself.”
The choreography of the show followed that same logic. Instead of walking a catwalk, the models stood along the sides of the room wearing the collection while observing the audience moving through the space. The familiar hierarchy of runway and front row dissolved, and the act of looking itself became part of the performance.
The clothes echoed this idea of shifting perspective. Tailoring merged with recognisable codes of femininity: suit trousers opening into skirt like silhouettes, pearls and hosiery appearing with a slight exaggeration, classic elegance gently displaced. The result suggested a dialogue between women rather than a performance staged for external approval.
Since its emergence in the early 2020s, AVAVAV has become known for runway presentations that mix humour, performance and commentary on the fashion system. With ‘The Female Gaze’, the brand placed observation at the centre of the narrative, suggesting that the way we look at each other can quietly redefine the meaning of femininity.
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