‘CLOUD’ unfolds as a reflection on rain, melancholy and femininity. In #VEINDIGITAL we went backstage at 080 Barcelona Fashion to talk with Zoe Oms about how darkness and softness coexist in her latest collection.
A soft tension runs through CLOUD, where Zoe Oms turns the feeling of rain into garments. Presented at 080 Barcelona Fashion, the collection turns the melancholy of a cloudy sky into texture, rhythm and form. Here, embellishment meets function: utilitarian details become ornamental, and a feminine, childlike spirit is equipped with practical silhouettes crafted from both lace and technical fabrics. Following Ribbons & Ruffles, her all-white exploration of reinterpreted femininity, Oms now embraces darkness and depth as part of the same continuum.
Just before the runway, we slipped first into the fitting room and then backstage, where the atmosphere pulsed with a quiet electricity. There was the familiar choreography of a contemporary fashion ritual: models waiting, taking selfies, scrolling through their phones. Yet in the hum of the show’s anticipation, what stood out was the intimacy –the shared work between Zoe Oms and her team, the camaraderie, the chatter and the laughter. Those brief moments of joy and also concentration before stepping into the light, before the storm began.
«CLOUD is a collection full of constant contrasts and contradictions. I found it very interesting to combine the technical and the functional to give structure to fluid and ethereal silhouettes. They complement each other in a cold, anti-organic way, and it is precisely for that reason that it allows space to play and experiment with design.» – Zoe Oms
«Layering creates an interesting dynamism where the pieces become decontextualized, forming a new universe through this mix & match. It also reiterates the aesthetic idea of maximalism and excess.» – Zoe Oms
«The use of white and black allows me to explore tension and conflict in depth, which have always been present in my work. This contrast between light and darkness expresses the search for balance. It translates into design through contrasts, layering, and textures that create constant dynamism.» – Zoe Oms
«The harness is a recurring element throughout the collection and is presented as an emotional armor. It gives strength and protection to a delicate and vulnerable silhouette. In this way, vulnerability finds refuge and a sense of safety where it is allowed to be authentic.» – Zoe Oms
«The dark atmosphere of a rainy sky carries a melancholic and dramatic emotional connotation. Aesthetically, it appears in the collection through the use of black combined with references from the 19th century and the Romantic movement, which express tragedy and maximalism, with exaggerated ruffles and gathers. On the other hand, we use waterproof materials in all kinds of garments —skirts, jackets, capes, dresses… This apparently excessive use of the raincoat symbolizes that it can always rain again.» – Zoe Oms
Words and Photos by Marisa Fatás
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