Yohji Yamamoto: the light that reshapes his shadows

09 / 12 / 2025
POR Marian Coma

Light becomes the primary sculptor of form in a campaign that reframes the Fall Winter 2025 2026 collection through nuance, introspection and the shifting weight of shadow.

The poetics of light take precedence in the new campaign for Yohji Yamamoto, where the collection sheds spectacle and settles into a more concentrated form. Light traces how each garment occupies space, revealing quiet tensions and subtle shifts within his enduring vocabulary of shadows. The images invite a slower reading, turning fabric into a threshold between presence and disappearance.

Outerwear leads the story. Coats with raised collars, reversible builds and layered silhouettes feel architectural, shaped as much by absence as by material. Textures that once moved on the runway now settle into stillness, exposing patchwork details, asymmetric lines and muted tones with sharper intimacy.

The campaign refines Yamamoto’s search for clarity. Leather, wool and technical fibres coexist with ease, balancing protection and vulnerability. The models’ unguarded gestures echo this openness, allowing meaning to emerge naturally. Returned months after its debut, the collection appears distilled, assured and anchored in the quiet world it imagines.

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