Just a few hours ago, inside the LDLC Arena, Rosalía kicked off her LUX World Tour — her most ambitious project to date — with a performance that felt less like a concert and more like a total artwork. A collision of opera, rave, religion and high fashion, staged with the precision of theatre and the emotional intensity of confession.
At the center of it all was transformation. She emerged like a ballerina, almost fragile, before shifting through a series of personas — celestial, romantic, feral — each one dissolving into the next. Critics described the audience as entering “a kind of trance,” pulled into a performance that blurred the line between ritual and spectacle. And then there were the clothes.
For the opening night, Rosalía wore three custom looks by Ann Demeulemeester, designed by Stefano Gallici in close dialogue with the artist and her creative team. If LUX is about duality, the wardrobe understood the assignment. These were not static outfits but living garments, built to move, unravel and evolve in real time.
Music and performance have always been embedded in the DNA of Ann Demeulemeester, and here that legacy finds a new body. The looks explored a tension that feels almost biographical for Rosalía: fragility and strength, romanticism and structure, dancer and warrior. Each piece was engineered for movement, supporting intense choreography while allowing layers to be gradually shed throughout the show. With every transformation, a new silhouette emerges underneath, turning costume into narrative. Not a change, but a reveal.
Details of each look below:
Napoleonic Jacket & Bloom Trousers. The look introduces structure and historical tailoring references. A Napoleonic Jacket is constructed from multiple tailored panels and extended into an elongated “penguin tail” silhouette. The piece is embellished with layered lace and cotton ruffles along the standing collar and front closure. Detachable two-piece sleeves mirror the gathered constructions seen throughout the wardrobe and are detailed with lace accents, contrasting tape and piping. The jacket is paired with Bloom Trousers, maintaining the tension between structured tailoring and fluid movement A sleek pair of Ann Demeulemeester black leather mid-calf boots with a minimalist silhouette and a rugged edge. Finished with two bold silver buckled straps, they balance understated elegance..
Wrapped Chiffon Top, Pointelle Bodysuit & Tiered Pleated Tutu. The first look builds a layered silhouette inspired by classical ballet. A Wrapped Chiffon Top gathers softly around the neckline with a twisted tie closure and an open front hem. Integrated ties at the armholes allow sleeves to be attached or removed depending on choreography. Beneath it sits a Pointelle Bodysuit, a backless, ballerina-inspired piece with integrated shorts and a high hip cut that contours the body while allowing full freedom of movement. Ballerina shoes delicately crafted in soft pink satin features a structured Mary Jane strap.
Its minimalist silhouette is accentuated by subtle toe pleating, offering a modern, understated sophistication The silhouette is completed with a Tiered Pleated Tutu, constructed from numerous layers of finely pleated tulle in varying lengths to create sculptural volume. An elongated satin V-cut waistband wraps and ties at the back.
Chiffon Gown with Crinolina Structure & Winged Accessories. The final look transforms the silhouette into a theatrical apparition. A Multi-Layered Chiffon Gown features a gathered adjustable neckline tied at
the front. A cross-lace trim intarsia runs across the bust and extends horizontally across the back. Two high front slits with adjustable drawstrings allow the garment to shift dynamically during performance, culminating in a dramatic fifteen-meter train. The gown is supported by a Crinolina Structure, engineered from lightweight boning and vertical supporting tapes, draped in chiffon and finished with hand-applied lace trim. Shoes are tall black satin boots with front lacing and inner zip, featuring a clean, slightly squared silhouette, mid sculptural curved heel. The look is completed with a eathered Wing Harness, constructed from layered chiffon and tulle manipulated to evoke a feathered structure, finished with cock feathers and secured with an adjustable backpack harness. A Distressed Wing Headpiece, built on a lace base with twin feathered wings and trailing distressed chiffon, crowns the silhouette.
