Sandy Liang SS27 explores ‘the dream of functionality’ at a time when being ready for anything feels increasingly relevant.
Around a pastel toy castle planted in the middle of Petzel Gallery, Sandy Liang imagined Spring Summer 2027 at a moment when talk of AI ending the world has become strangely familiar. Liang’s response is considerably more charming: technical jackets, track pants, nylon, pockets and tactical bags, but also bows, ruffles, lace and satin. In a moment ever more shaped by apocalyptic thinking, we’re still taking the fantasy with us.
The show notes call it ‘the dream of functionality’, alongside ‘the joys of modularity’ and the excitement of getting dressed up to run around. Liang expands utility rather than opposing it to decoration. A bow does not stop you from moving. A ruffle can sit happily on a track pant. Pink does not make a bag any less useful. Practicality can be precious, playful and unmistakably feminine.
The kitten heel is where things become more complicated. Liang describes the collection as girly, comfortable and easy, with touches of ‘hyper sport’, yet several looks pair that promise of movement with tiny heels or wedges. Fine for going out for a drink, but less convincing when you spend the day moving from one place to another, carrying things, waiting for transport or navigating crowded spaces.
Softness, fantasy and ornament can absolutely belong to clothes made for moving through the world. It would be great if looking good remained possible even when the next dystopian scenario calls for a quick escape.
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