Simone Bellotti disrupts the precision of Jil Sander with wrinkles, strange proportions and small imperfections, questioning what minimalism can mean once it has become mainstream.
Something feels deliberately off at Jil Sander. For spring summer 2027, Simone Bellotti takes a language that has spread far beyond the house and gives it a slight twist. Minimalism is everywhere. His answer is to disturb its perfection. Bellotti describes the problem simply: the precision historically associated with Jil Sander has become familiar across fashion. He introduces something ‘a bit wrong’, an imprecision that gives the clothes movement and character.
The collection unfolds like a wave. It begins in familiar territory with a collarless black leather coat dress, then gradually becomes stranger. Jackets gather unexpectedly around the waist. Coats expand beneath buttons positioned unusually high on the chest. Shirt collars grow too large for their jackets. Blazers appear permanently rumpled, as though someone has just got out of bed or stepped into a strong breeze. 
The tension comes from the technique behind these gestures. Precision produces clothes that look slightly displaced, compressed or disturbed. The wrinkle becomes part of the construction.
Then control loosens. Expansive dresses bring volume and movement, including a yellow taffeta look shaped through wrapping and draping. Ruffles appear pressed flat, while a Japanese landscape crosses a pencil skirt, the collection’s only print. Shoes continue the disruption with asymmetrical vamps, extreme cutouts and adjustable flaps.
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